One of my favorite pastimes is reading restaurant menus. I first started doing this when I lived in New York and wanted to see what my favorite places in Texas serve. Although over the years, whenever I read historical menus from the early 20th century to the mid-20th century, it also became an eye-opening way to see how Texan cuisine evolved.

One aspect of the Texan cuisine that has changed is the impact of Mexican food restaurants on the classic Tex-Mex. For example, take the popular border and the dish of Mexico City known as enfrijoladas. The name refers to Priholes, who translates. . .

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